Thursday 26 August 2010
On the move
Since our last entry we have covered many miles. We've been to Venice and travelled south again through Croatia's islands to Dubrovnik. Now we have checked out from Cavtat and are heading non-stop to Corfu, 220 miles away. At a speed of 4.5 knots this will give us lots of time to write a full blog entry about our Adriatic travels...
Tuesday 10 August 2010
Croatia
Summertime in Croatia and it's holiday season. The mood is infectious. Croatia is like a holiday for us too, after all the (nautical) miles we've put in since we left Almerimar at the end of March. It's the perfect place for some serious rest and relaxation. So many islands on the charts, so many anchorages ripe for discovery. This is certainly the lifestyle we were envisaging when we first started to discuss the trip, though Croatia wasn't necessarily the country we were expecting to find it, it wasn't even on our first draft itinerary but we're so glad we came, it's our favourite sailing destination so far.
The last 3 weeks have seen us travelling north through varied landscapes from Split in central Dalmatia to the Istrian peninsula in the northern Adriatic. The Bachmanns (friends from Edinburgh -Isla and Viv have been friends through the nursery since they were toddlers) joined us for two weeks heading up to Zadar, and we've had a wonderful time. Days were spent in and out of the water, swimming, snorkelling, kayaking, scooping up lost items from overboard (mostly pegs), kissing bruises, mediating toddler wars, reading, planning the next destination, while the evenings were enjoyed drinking wine and eating secret grown ups chocolate (yes, still getting away with that one) while listening to the girls giggle in their cabin.
After collecting the Bachmanns from Split, where we sat uncomfortably at anchor in a lumpy swell created by the ferries coming and going, we headed back to the nearby island of Solta. From Solta we travelled north and then couldn't resist taking the opportunity for sight-seeing inland by taking Skyran up-river to Skradin, famous as the gateway to Krka National Park. We spent one night anchored in a tranquil spot on a lake before continuing on to Skradin. The National Park is famous for its waterfalls and it's only possible to travel there by taking one of the official boats. We arrived at the park at lunchtime and unsurprisingly it was packed with visitors, which detracted a bit from what is clearly an outstandingly beautiful place. We followed the sightseeing route through the park to take in the countless waterfalls. There were grazed knees, bumped heads and scraped arms (3 of the 4 kids were sporting injuries by the end of the day) but it was a worthwhile trip. Skradin was a scenic town to explore and Colin and I were enjoying the novelty of being away from the sea but still on the boat.
Channel marker on the Krka River
Swimming in the falls at Skradinski Buk
From Skradin we refuelled and watered at Sibenik, having emptied the water tanks on the way with a major family laundry event. From here we headed for the Kornati Islands, another national park. This is a chain of desolate, devegetated islands where sheep once roamed, renowned for their stark natural beauty. We spent a day anchored in a bay for lunch and a swim before heading to one of the official overnight anchorages, Uvala Opat on Otok Kornat. We had imagined dining in a rustic Croatian restaurant but it turned out that this bay's restaurant was a much more upmarket affair. The fish they suggested for us for 8 people was enormous and would've cost £250 (they were choosing to ignore the mini appetites of the 4 children standing in front of them!). We chose the alternative of a mixed fish grill and that evening we feasted like kings (when we were able to eat it, the kids were very mobile that night). The cost was eye-watering (the bread from the table and leftover water came back to the boat with us) but it was worth it, the food was outstanding.
The Kornati Islands, "On the last day of the Creation God desired to crown his work, and thus created the Kornati Islands out of tears, stars and breath". George Bernard Shaw.
Breakfast with a starfish which had attached itself to the anchor
We enjoyed our time in the Kornati Islands but it was cut short by, of all things, rain. We can't even remember the last time we saw water falling from the sky (we reckon it must be Sardinia back in May), but it transported us from Croatia to Scotland in an instant. And it wasn't just raining, it was accompanied by strong gusting wind and quickly steepening sea. We were finally experiencing an Adriatic squall, which we'd seen forecasted on the Navtex (weather forecasts) almost every day since entering the Adriatic back in Otranto. Spotting another peaceful spot we managed to escape the white horses and relax again. And eventually the weather relaxed too; the sun came out and after a swim and climb up the hill for some we continued north to Telascica Bay on the south end of Dugi Otok, our third national park in a week. Colin identified a promising narrow inlet to one side of this large natural harbour on the chart and it proved to be perfection. We stayed two days, and it was bliss.
View of Skyran in the Kornati Islands
Cuska Duboka, Telascica Bay, Dugi Otok
The snorkelling here was particularly good and Till made a very exciting discovery of an octopus on one outing. It made a tour around the boat (an underwater tour I should add!), giving lots of photo opportunities for those in the water. Till was also involved in some urgent work which required climbing the treacherous, landslide-prone hill we were moored on, in order to get a signal to send an email back to the office. Fortunately he took a camera with him as well to get some great shots:
Our tentacled visitor
Till's view of the Kornati Islands
We spent several more nights making our way up Dugi Otok, which was a welcome return to lush green vegetation after the barreness of the Kornatis. One night we anchored in such clear waters that at 4 meters deep the sea bed was so clear you felt you could reach in and touch it. There were amazing fan mussels and spider crabs, Till brought some examples up for the children to see.
At the north end of Dugi Otok we took a walk up to a lighthouse through a pine forest to watch the sunset.
A shipwreck we snorkelled, Dugi Otok. A seahorse with a missing tail.
As we came to the end of the Bachmanns' trip the weather deteriorated. During their final evening we sat inside watching an electrical storm approach, sipping wine while the lightning lit up the distant sky. With strong strong gusts of wind, Colin leapt up during the night when he mistook one particularly close and very loud thunderclap for us being hit by our neighbour who was anchored close by. Our anchor held well through the night though, and when we lifted it the following morning we discovered just how secure it was - there was an old steel mooring cable well and truly wrapped round it, which he had to cut off with boltcutters to release it in the pouring rain. We were well and truly saturated by the time we reached the mainland (people and boat, with all her curious little leaks which are gradually being repaired), and in torrential donwpours and heavy hearts we bade farewell to the Bachmann family.
A wet goodbye
And so there were 4. Suddenly the boat felt so spacious and quiet, though we'd never felt it cramped or noisy when they were here, and the two weeks had flown by. Sitting on deck on the island of Silba we were faced with a dilemma - should we start to travel south again, coinciding with the annual festival at Sali on Dugi Otok, or continue north? A glance at the charts drew our attention to how close we'd come to one of the ultimate Mediterranean destinations. Venice. Could we possibly leave this area without taking Skyran to meet the Queen of the Adriatic? The answer was, of course not! So we have a new direction, and a new purpose in our (metaphorical) stride as we set our sights on fulfilling a dream. James Bond sailed a boat into Venice, and so (hopefully) will we.
On our journey north we have reached Pula on the Istrian peninsula. Pula is famous for its Roman amphitheatre - the first Roman ruins since Tunisia! We are anchored in the bay, from where we can see the amphitheatre picturesquely lit up, set amongst the cranes of the working port and adjacent to beautiful Venetian buildings and outstandingly functional, ugly twentieth century Communist architecture.
Irresistible photo opportunity in Pula, with the amphitheatre in the background
Tonight's view from the cockpit, the amphitheatre lit up (centre)
As we sat having dinner this evening the local rowing club were out training. After almost a month holidaying with Croatians and Italians amongst the islands it's a refreshing change to be in an urban setting and a working city. From here we travel to Rovinj then Venice on Thursday. The next few days are all about city life.
The last 3 weeks have seen us travelling north through varied landscapes from Split in central Dalmatia to the Istrian peninsula in the northern Adriatic. The Bachmanns (friends from Edinburgh -Isla and Viv have been friends through the nursery since they were toddlers) joined us for two weeks heading up to Zadar, and we've had a wonderful time. Days were spent in and out of the water, swimming, snorkelling, kayaking, scooping up lost items from overboard (mostly pegs), kissing bruises, mediating toddler wars, reading, planning the next destination, while the evenings were enjoyed drinking wine and eating secret grown ups chocolate (yes, still getting away with that one) while listening to the girls giggle in their cabin.
After collecting the Bachmanns from Split, where we sat uncomfortably at anchor in a lumpy swell created by the ferries coming and going, we headed back to the nearby island of Solta. From Solta we travelled north and then couldn't resist taking the opportunity for sight-seeing inland by taking Skyran up-river to Skradin, famous as the gateway to Krka National Park. We spent one night anchored in a tranquil spot on a lake before continuing on to Skradin. The National Park is famous for its waterfalls and it's only possible to travel there by taking one of the official boats. We arrived at the park at lunchtime and unsurprisingly it was packed with visitors, which detracted a bit from what is clearly an outstandingly beautiful place. We followed the sightseeing route through the park to take in the countless waterfalls. There were grazed knees, bumped heads and scraped arms (3 of the 4 kids were sporting injuries by the end of the day) but it was a worthwhile trip. Skradin was a scenic town to explore and Colin and I were enjoying the novelty of being away from the sea but still on the boat.
Channel marker on the Krka River
Swimming in the falls at Skradinski Buk
From Skradin we refuelled and watered at Sibenik, having emptied the water tanks on the way with a major family laundry event. From here we headed for the Kornati Islands, another national park. This is a chain of desolate, devegetated islands where sheep once roamed, renowned for their stark natural beauty. We spent a day anchored in a bay for lunch and a swim before heading to one of the official overnight anchorages, Uvala Opat on Otok Kornat. We had imagined dining in a rustic Croatian restaurant but it turned out that this bay's restaurant was a much more upmarket affair. The fish they suggested for us for 8 people was enormous and would've cost £250 (they were choosing to ignore the mini appetites of the 4 children standing in front of them!). We chose the alternative of a mixed fish grill and that evening we feasted like kings (when we were able to eat it, the kids were very mobile that night). The cost was eye-watering (the bread from the table and leftover water came back to the boat with us) but it was worth it, the food was outstanding.
The Kornati Islands, "On the last day of the Creation God desired to crown his work, and thus created the Kornati Islands out of tears, stars and breath". George Bernard Shaw.
Breakfast with a starfish which had attached itself to the anchor
We enjoyed our time in the Kornati Islands but it was cut short by, of all things, rain. We can't even remember the last time we saw water falling from the sky (we reckon it must be Sardinia back in May), but it transported us from Croatia to Scotland in an instant. And it wasn't just raining, it was accompanied by strong gusting wind and quickly steepening sea. We were finally experiencing an Adriatic squall, which we'd seen forecasted on the Navtex (weather forecasts) almost every day since entering the Adriatic back in Otranto. Spotting another peaceful spot we managed to escape the white horses and relax again. And eventually the weather relaxed too; the sun came out and after a swim and climb up the hill for some we continued north to Telascica Bay on the south end of Dugi Otok, our third national park in a week. Colin identified a promising narrow inlet to one side of this large natural harbour on the chart and it proved to be perfection. We stayed two days, and it was bliss.
View of Skyran in the Kornati Islands
Cuska Duboka, Telascica Bay, Dugi Otok
The snorkelling here was particularly good and Till made a very exciting discovery of an octopus on one outing. It made a tour around the boat (an underwater tour I should add!), giving lots of photo opportunities for those in the water. Till was also involved in some urgent work which required climbing the treacherous, landslide-prone hill we were moored on, in order to get a signal to send an email back to the office. Fortunately he took a camera with him as well to get some great shots:
Our tentacled visitor
Till's view of the Kornati Islands
We spent several more nights making our way up Dugi Otok, which was a welcome return to lush green vegetation after the barreness of the Kornatis. One night we anchored in such clear waters that at 4 meters deep the sea bed was so clear you felt you could reach in and touch it. There were amazing fan mussels and spider crabs, Till brought some examples up for the children to see.
At the north end of Dugi Otok we took a walk up to a lighthouse through a pine forest to watch the sunset.
A shipwreck we snorkelled, Dugi Otok. A seahorse with a missing tail.
As we came to the end of the Bachmanns' trip the weather deteriorated. During their final evening we sat inside watching an electrical storm approach, sipping wine while the lightning lit up the distant sky. With strong strong gusts of wind, Colin leapt up during the night when he mistook one particularly close and very loud thunderclap for us being hit by our neighbour who was anchored close by. Our anchor held well through the night though, and when we lifted it the following morning we discovered just how secure it was - there was an old steel mooring cable well and truly wrapped round it, which he had to cut off with boltcutters to release it in the pouring rain. We were well and truly saturated by the time we reached the mainland (people and boat, with all her curious little leaks which are gradually being repaired), and in torrential donwpours and heavy hearts we bade farewell to the Bachmann family.
A wet goodbye
And so there were 4. Suddenly the boat felt so spacious and quiet, though we'd never felt it cramped or noisy when they were here, and the two weeks had flown by. Sitting on deck on the island of Silba we were faced with a dilemma - should we start to travel south again, coinciding with the annual festival at Sali on Dugi Otok, or continue north? A glance at the charts drew our attention to how close we'd come to one of the ultimate Mediterranean destinations. Venice. Could we possibly leave this area without taking Skyran to meet the Queen of the Adriatic? The answer was, of course not! So we have a new direction, and a new purpose in our (metaphorical) stride as we set our sights on fulfilling a dream. James Bond sailed a boat into Venice, and so (hopefully) will we.
On our journey north we have reached Pula on the Istrian peninsula. Pula is famous for its Roman amphitheatre - the first Roman ruins since Tunisia! We are anchored in the bay, from where we can see the amphitheatre picturesquely lit up, set amongst the cranes of the working port and adjacent to beautiful Venetian buildings and outstandingly functional, ugly twentieth century Communist architecture.
Irresistible photo opportunity in Pula, with the amphitheatre in the background
Tonight's view from the cockpit, the amphitheatre lit up (centre)
As we sat having dinner this evening the local rowing club were out training. After almost a month holidaying with Croatians and Italians amongst the islands it's a refreshing change to be in an urban setting and a working city. From here we travel to Rovinj then Venice on Thursday. The next few days are all about city life.
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